Category Archives: BBQ

An ugly condiment’s beautiful cousin

HOMEWOOD, Ala. – On my third visit to Saw’s BBQ, I finally accepted my own hypocrisy.

Posted in BBQ, Side Dishes, Sweet Tea, Value | Tagged , , , | 13 Comments

‘Quite Lovely’

NEW YORK – college football producer Ben Glicksman, who as of this moment has a standing invitation to every forthcoming Heaven Is a Buffet review meal, stared at the raw mustard greens before him like an astronaut examining a … Continue reading

Posted in BBQ, Fancy Pants | Tagged , | 5 Comments

The BBQist Manifesto

CHICAGO – Unwritten rules permeate barbecue culture like post oak smoke permeates a hunk of brisket. Don’t drown the meat in sauce. Use spare ribs instead of babybacks. Never sacrifice attention to the meat for attention to side dishes. Everyone seems … Continue reading

Posted in BBQ, Side Dishes | Tagged , , | 2 Comments

Sauces? We don’t need no stinking sauces.

DESTIN, Fla. – It takes guts to open a cash-only restaurant with no indoor seating in a place where the temperature routinely hovers between 90 and the fires of hell. It takes even more guts to serve a pulled-pork sandwich … Continue reading

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Barbecue in The Bywater

NEW ORLEANS – Even Tom Robbins would admire the way I ate my way through NOLA to keep the leg-humping hunger beast at bay. I consumed Po’ Boys, gumbo, boudin, rabbit, lamb, alligator and the porcine delicacy the French call … Continue reading

Posted in BBQ, Laissez les bons temps rouler, Side Dishes, Sweet Tea | Tagged , , , , | 1 Comment

From pop star to pulled pork star

ATLANTA – Barbecue gets pigeonholed as a regional cuisine enjoyed by people with provincial tastes, and that stereotype exists because it is at least partially true. Every time I mention a joint on my Twitter feed, I get responses from … Continue reading

Posted in BBQ, Side Dishes | Tagged , , | 12 Comments

Sweet memories

LEXINGTON, S.C. – First, a confession.

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What the F (Bomb)?

AUSTIN, Texas – I get this question a lot. “Is this all for you?” Mark Avalos asked as he stuffed a made-that-day bolillo with sausage, pulled pork and brisket. It was, but only because the menu board at The Sugar … Continue reading

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The upscale hole in the wall

RALEIGH, N.C. – When I saw the sign, my stomach tightened. Valet parking? At a barbecue joint?

Posted in BBQ, Fancy Pants, Side Dishes | 9 Comments

The new champ

AUSTIN, Texas – Ranking barbecue joints feels an awful lot like ranking college football teams. Each ranking is purely subjective. Each ranking is based on potentially dubious criteria unique to the individual doing the ranking. Each ranking, in the grand … Continue reading

Posted in BBQ, Sweet Tea | Tagged , , , | 54 Comments