Category Archives: Side Dishes

An ugly condiment’s beautiful cousin

HOMEWOOD, Ala. – On my third visit to Saw’s BBQ, I finally accepted my own hypocrisy.

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From jowl to tail

CHICAGO – Even when I’ve eaten whole hog barbecue, I haven’t really eaten the whole hog. Sure, I’ve eaten snout at Petty’s in Starkville, Miss., but most of my swine dining has come from the popular cuts. Wednesday, I set … Continue reading

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My question: Answered

WASHINGTON – Restaurant workers, take a lesson from the hardest working bartender inside the Beltway. When I asked Charles to name the best entrée on the Founding Farmers menu Monday night, he didn’t offer either of the following mealy-mouthed answers.

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The BBQist Manifesto

CHICAGO – Unwritten rules permeate barbecue culture like hickory smoke permeates a hunk of brisket. Don’t drown the meat in sauce. Use spare ribs instead of babybacks. Never sacrifice attention to the meat for attention to side dishes. Everyone seems … Continue reading

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Barbecue in The Bywater

NEW ORLEANS – Even Tom Robbins would admire the way I ate my way through NOLA to keep the leg-humping hunger beast at bay. I consumed Po’ Boys, gumbo, boudin, rabbit, lamb, alligator and the porcine delicacy the French call … Continue reading

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It always knows

NEW ORLEANS – It was New Year’s Eve 2009. I had just landed in NOLA, and I needed to find a place to eat. I checked Urbanspoon, but in a city as gastronomically dense as this one, a list of … Continue reading

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From pop star to pulled pork star

ATLANTA – Barbecue gets pigeonholed as a regional cuisine enjoyed by people with provincial tastes, and that stereotype exists because it is at least partially true. Every time I mention a joint on my Twitter feed, I get responses from … Continue reading

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Automatic, Y’all

“I wanted Weaver D’s to be a place where there is a bounty, a land flowing with milk and honey, like Moses talked about in Exodus.” – Dexter Weaver in Automatic Y’all: Weaver D’s Guide to the Soul ATHENS, Ga. … Continue reading

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Sweet memories

LEXINGTON, S.C. – First, a confession.

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A culinary penthouse in a basement

LOUISVILLE, Ky. – The Hammerheads web site warns diners ahead of time. Don’t bring large parties. Expect to wait. The chefs aren’t trying to be divas. They aren’t trying to be unnecessarily surly. They simply need you to accept the … Continue reading

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